{"id":34039,"date":"2018-10-02T08:37:16","date_gmt":"2018-10-02T06:37:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sacotin.com\/?p=34039"},"modified":"2018-10-02T09:43:27","modified_gmt":"2018-10-02T07:43:27","slug":"how-to-sew-flexible-foam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sacotin.com\/en\/how-to-sew-flexible-foam\/","title":{"rendered":"How to sew flexible foam or Style-Vil tutorial"},"content":{"rendered":"
A flexible foam is a perfect material to give a great structure to your bags, without weighting them down. It is also ideal for making protective covers for your electronic devices (mobiles, computers, tablets, e-readers, …). It can replace the usual interfacing + fleece combination in some of your sewing projects.<\/p>\n
In this post, I’ll show you a generic flexible foam and its equivalent from Vilene (the brand is called Vlieseline in France) : Style-Vil. I’ll also show you how to use it when sewing bags and other projects.<\/p>\n
\n
Generic flexible foam or Style-Vil<\/h2>\n
In France there are mainly 2 available references<\/h3>\n
\n
Style-Vil from Vilene \/ Vlieseline.<\/li>\n
Generic flexible foam called “mousse sur r\u00e9sille” in France (can be bought online, at upholsterers and shops specialized in foam). “Mousse sur r\u00e9sille” is the French generic name for a product often used for upholstery, car headliners, etc … I couldn’t find the exact English name for it but it looks like your best bet for finding some is to look for “foam backed headliner”.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
There are other references abroad, similar to Style-Vil. I will not detail them here because getting them is difficult in France, but to quote some : \u00a0Pellon FF77 Flex Foam Sew In Stabilizer, ByAnnie’s Soft and Stable, Bosal In-R-Form Unique Sew In Foam Stabilizer. Most of these are available in sew-in or fusible versions. Personally I am not a fan of fusible foams, the final result after handling the project does not satisfy me.<\/em><\/p>\nLeft : Style-Vil – Right : generic flexible foam<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nClose-up of the net layer\u00a0 (Left : Style-Vil – Right : generic flexible foam)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/p>\n
This flexible foams are about 4 to 5 mm thick (3\/16″)<\/strong>. Style-Vil is a little firmer than the generic foam.<\/p>\n
The flexible foam is covered by a net like fabric<\/strong> on both sides. On the Style-Vil the net is fine on both sides. For the generic foam, the net is finer on one side than the other.<\/p>\nSide view – 4-5 mm (3\/16″) width : the foam is sandwiched between two thin layers of net like fabric.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSide view – 4-5 mm (3\/16″) width : the foam is sandwiched between two thin layers\u00a0net like fabric.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nStyle-Vil : the net is fine on both sides. For the generic foam, the net is finer on one side than the other.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI “peeled” the net on each side to show it to you, do not worry there is no chance for it to come off on its own !<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Foam prices (in France)<\/h3>\n
\n
The Style-Vil costs around\u00a013\u20ac per meter <\/strong>for a\u00a070 cm width<\/strong>.<\/li>\n
The generic flexible foam costs around\u00a06\u20ac\u00a0<\/strong>per meter <\/strong>for a\u00a0140 cm width.<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
When taking the width into account, the Style-Vil is thus 4 times more expensive<\/strong> than the generic foam. Even if the Style-Vil is a little more pleasant to work with, it does not justify, in my opinion, to pay that much more.<\/p>\n\n
Cutting flexible foam or Style-Vil<\/h2>\n
Simply cut the flexible foam with your usual sewing scissors or a rotary cutter.<\/p>\n
Cut in the foam all the pieces that make up the structure of the bag (bag body, sides, bottom and possibly flap).<\/p>\n
Tracing the outline of the pattern pieces is easier on the Style-Vil because of its light color, so an erasable pen does the trick.<\/p>\n
To draw on the generic flexible foam (which is dark gray) I usually use a black pen or chalk, and I then cut inside the line.<\/p>\n
\n
Sewing\u00a0flexible foam or Style-Vil<\/h2>\n
Do not worry, these foams are easy to sew.<\/p>\n
They get compressed easily under the foot of the sewing machine and a stichline will keep it compressed.<\/p>\nThe stichline flattens the flexible foam.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Which needle to use when sewing flexible foam?<\/h3>\n
To sew the foam, I use, as always when sewing bags, denim needles size 100.<\/p>\n
How to position the foam?<\/h3>\n
The foam is positioned on the wrong side of the fabric.<\/p>\n
You can choose to baste the foam to the outer fabric or<\/strong>\u00a0to the lining. If the outer fabric is thick or faux-leather, then sew the foam to the lining pieces to limit the thickness of the outer fabric seams.<\/p>\nPut the foam on the wrong side of the fabric<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Basting flexible foam<\/h3>\n
There are 2 ways to baste the foam<\/strong> to your fabric pieces: with a straight stitch or with a zigzag stitch.<\/p>\n
I prefer basting with the fabric towards me and the foam against the feed dogs to better see and control the seam allowance.<\/p>\n
Basting\u00a0with a straight stitch<\/h4>\n
\n
Set the stitch length to 4.5 – 5 mm.<\/li>\n
Stitch with a seam allowance a hair smaller than the seam allowance used for the project (example: baste at 0.8 cm if the seam allowance is 1 cm).<\/li>\n
To reduce the thickness of the seam allowance, trim the foam close to the basting stitch. Be careful not to cut the fabric!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nBaste with a straight long stitch, just inside the seam allowance. See how the foam is easily compressed under the foot.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWrong side view<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTrim the flexible foam seam allowance close to the basting stitch<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSeam allowances trimmed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSeam allowances trimmed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIt stands on its own !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Basting\u00a0with a zigzag stitch<\/h4>\n
\n
You can baste with a sewing machine or a serger.<\/li>\n
Set the zigzag stitch to a large width and a small length. A large width of the zigzag stitch will flatten the foam in the seam allowance. But beware<\/strong>: the stitch width must be less than the seam allowance of the project (example: if the seam allowance is 1 cm set the stitch width to 7 mm).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nBaste with a wide zigzag stitch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nWrong side : the foam is flattened by the\u00a0zigzag stitch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Test the 2 methods and choose the one you prefer!<\/h4>\n
Personally I prefer basting the foam with a straight stitch and trimming its seam allowances because I find the look of the end project better this way.<\/p>\n2 ways to baste the foam\u00a0: with a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Once the foam is basted to the necessary pieces<\/strong>, you can sew them together to make your bag, cover, …<\/p>\n
To press seams open,<\/strong> always use a pressing cloth between the foam and the iron sole plate.<\/p>\nOuter view of a basket interlined with flexible foam (lining not yet attached)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nView of the flexible foam interlining inside a basket (lining not yet attached)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Tip<\/b>: keep the foam scraps, they can be used to strengthen your fabric when installing magnetic snaps, tuck catch closures,…<\/em><\/p>\n\n
That’s how to use flexible foam or Styl-Vil to give body to sewing your projects.<\/p>\n
A flexible foam is a perfect material to give a great structure to your bags, without weighting them down. It is also ideal for making protective covers for your electronic devices (mobiles, computers, tablets, e-readers, …). It can replace the usual interfacing + fleece combination in some of your sewing projects.<\/p>\n
In this post, I’ll show you a generic flexible foam and its equivalent from Vilene (the brand is called Vlieseline in France) : Style-Vil. I’ll also show you how to use it when sewing bags and other projects.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":44798,"featured_media":33881,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52,73],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-34039","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-tutorials"],"yoast_head":"\n
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