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Two-tone or double-sided strap Tutorial

Tuto bandoulière bicolore Sacôtin
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Easy to sew, a double-sided strap is also a pretty way to reduce the thickness of a vinyl shoulder strap by pairing it with cotton.

Two-tone or double-sided strap tutorial

There are several ways to make a double-sided strap, this is my favorite, which reveals a small border on the right side (like the handles of the Cabotin bag).


Cut

Cut 2 strips, one in each fabric.

Bottom fabric / Wrong side of the strap :

  • Width = 2 x desired width of the shoulder strap. Example: for a finished 2.5 cm (1″) shoulder strap cut a 2.5 cm x 2 = 5 cm (1″ x 2 = 2″) wide strip.
  • Length = 140 cm (55″) minimum for an adjustable shoulder strap (adjustable shoulder strap tutorial) – or 60 cm to 70 cm (24″ to 28″) for handles.

Top fabric / Right side of the strap :

  • Width = width of the bottom strip – 1 cm. Example: for the example above where the bottom strip is 5 cm (2″) wide : 5 cm – 1 cm = 4 cm (2″- 3/8″ = 1  5/8″).
  • Length = same as the bottom strip.

For a vinyl + cotton strap, cut the bottom (widest) strip in vinyl and the top strip in cotton.

**Tip: you can substitute bias binding for the top strip and webbing for the bottom strip !**


Interfacing

  • If you make a strap entirely in cotton, interface the two strips.
  • For a vinyl + cotton shoulder strap, the interfacing is only necessary if your vinyl and / or your cotton is light weight, in this case interface the cotton strip.

Finishing the ends

On the other hand, if the ends will be visible once the bag is done and the fabric frays, it will be necessary to finish them either:

  • By using metal strap ends : in this case, the ends of the strap will simply be hidden, once the shoulder strap is finished, in the metal ends.
  • By folding 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side at each end of the 2 strips.

Sewing

You will find below 2 different techniques for sewing a two-tone shoulder strap:

  • Technique 1 for a vinyl + cotton strap.
  • Technique 2 when the 2 strips of fabric can be iron pressed – Example: 2 cotton strips.

Technique 1 – Vinyl + cotton 

1- Draw a line in the center of each strip (I use a Frixion erasable pen). These lines will serve as a guide for folding.

2- Take the vinyl strip (widest) and fold one of the long edges, wrong sides together, to align it with the center line. Hold with clips or Wonder Tape.

Fold a long edge and hold with clips.

3- Topstitch the folded edge with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance (stitch length 3.5 to 4 mm).

Topstitch the folded edge with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.

4- In the same way, fold the other long edge, wrong sides together, to align it with the center line and topstitch with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.

Fold the other long edge and topstitch with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance.

5- Fold the long edges of the cotton strip, wrong sides together, toward the center line and press.

Fold the long edges and press.

6- Center the cotton strip over the vinyl strip, wrong sides together. Hold with clips or Wonder Tape.

Center the cotton strip over the vinyl strip, wrong sides together.

7- Topstitch on the cotton strip and through all layers with a 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowanceBe careful the 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowance  is measured from the edge of the shoulder strap, not from the edge of the narrowest strip. Same stitch length as the previous topstitching: 3.5 to 4 mm.

Topstitch on the cotton strip and through all layers with a 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowance.
Topstitch on the cotton strip and through all layers with a 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowance.

Voilà ! The vinyl-cotton strap is done : the contrasting strip is on the right side and 4 lines of parallel stitching appear on the vinyl side.

Double-sided strap done and metal ends installed.

Technique 2 – the 2 strips of fabric can be iron pressed

1 –Draw a line in the center of each strip (I use a Frixion erasable pen). These lines will serve as a guide for folding.

2- Fold the long edges of the 2 strips, wrong sides together, toward the center line and press.

Fold the long edges toward the center line and press.

3- Center the strips widthwise, wrong sides together.

Center the strips widthwise, wrong sides together.

4- Topstitch on the top strip and through all layers with a 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowanceBe careful the 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowance is measured from the edge of the shoulder strap, not from the edge of the narrowest strip

Topstitch on the top strip and through all layers with a 0.5 cm (1/4″) seam allowance.
Double-sided strap done !

It’s your turn 🙂

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